Birding on the Salish Sea

Joe Meche is a past president of the North Cascades Audubon Society and is still active in chapter affairs.He has been watching birds for more than 50 years and photographing birds and landscapes for more than 30 years. He has written more than 100 articles for Whatcom Watch.

We live on one of the most scenic, biologically-rich bodies of water in the world and its cast of characters ranges from pods of orca whales and seals to bald eagles and sandpipers. The scenic beauty is beyond compare and only adds to any wildlife excursion you might take. With a backdrop of glacier-clad peaks in every direction, numerous estuarine inlets, islands that rise over two thousand feet, sheltered coves, and quiet beaches beckon the inner adventurer. The best part is that the entire area is totally accessible to everyone, regardless of your means of access. Whether you choose to view it from the comfort of your vehicle or from one of the many state and county ferries, by kayak or other personal watercraft, you will be amazed at the wonders of the Salish Sea.

Although the familiar place names won’t be changed on regional maps, the Salish Sea name has been officially recognized on both sides of the border. This incredible inland sea encompasses the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the Strait of Georgia, and Puget Sound and stretches from Desolation Sound in British Columbia to Oakland Bay on the south end of Puget Sound. The name was first used by marine biologist Bert Webber to increase awareness of this vast ecosystem and the need to protect it. The name itself was proposed in tribute to the indigenous Coastal Salish peoples who were here long before the first explorers and white settlers arrived.

Nutrient-rich rivers from the Cascade, Olympic, and Coastal Ranges flow into saltwater throughout the area providing sustenance for all the creatures that call the area home. Though not as plentiful as they were historically, all species of Pacific salmon travel through the Salish Sea on the way to their natal streams. Native tribes relied on the bounty of these waters for their very livelihood throughout the year.

I had occasion in late August to hitch a couple of rides on the aptly-named MV Salish Sea to sample just a small segment of this magnificent bionetwork. From the beginning of the tour at the Bellingham Cruise Terminal in Fairhaven to the return almost eight hours later, the trip was a veritable showcase of the wonders we have close at hand. The open water and the north-south layout of Bellingham Bay contribute to its reputation for being a bit on the rough side, and our first trip into the wind was a typical crossing.

On the other hand, as soon as we reached the protection of the islands, the ride was not as bumpy and we were finally able to venture out of the cabin for better views. We enjoyed a reprieve from the chop on a short side trip into the northern reaches of Chuckanut Bay just off Clark’s Point. Inside a small cove off the point we were able to enjoy close-up looks at some of the intricate Chuckanut sandstone formations before heading to the Chuckanut Rocks.

This little formation is often a hotspot for kayaking birdwatchers. The tallest of the rocks can be covered by a variety of birds, including double-crested and pelagic cormorants, black turnstones, black oystercatchers, harlequin ducks, and the occasional surfbird. Needless to say, as with most of the small islets in the area, seals are easily observed in their favorite haul-out spots, and these rocks are definitely in that category.

After a nice break in calm waters we then motored between Lummi and Eliza Islands to the Viti Rocks and another hot spot for birds and those who watch them. It was here that we encountered our first Heermann’s gulls of the day. This gull stands out from the more common gulls in the area with their bright orange bills. This gull is more special than most because we only get to see them during spring and fall migrations.

With another bonanza of birds and marine mammals at the Viti Rocks we passed Vendovi Island and picked up our first tidbits of information from the complex history of the naming of the islands in the San Juan Archipelago. We then traveled through the Bellingham Channel between Cypress and Guemes Islands where the steep, forested slopes are usually good places to see bald eagles – one of the big crowd pleasers no matter where you go.

We ventured through Rosario Strait to the south end of Lopez Island and Iceberg Point in search of the elusive tufted puffins. This is where the innermost waters of the Strait of Juan de Fuca meet the waters of Puget Sound. This is a very active area for birds and marine mammals. Relatively frequent sightings of minke whales and harbor porpoises are at times augmented with views of the resident pod of orcas passing by Cattle Point on San Juan Island. At this point in our journey, the Salish Sea did a nautical u-turn and headed eastward toward Deception Pass, which separates Whidbey and Fidalgo Islands. The tidal flow through this narrow cut of rock is staggering to tidal statisticians.

After a calm passage under the Deception Pass bridge we sailed into the northern part of Skagit Bay and then into the narrow passageway that is the Swinomish Channel. The tide was out on one particular day and a grounded sailboat demonstrated how important it is to pay attention to channel markers and the tides in this channel. We motored past the scenic waterfront community of La Conner for a different perspective of a place that most of us have seen only from the main street, where the shops and restaurants abound for daytrippers.

As we cruised under the twin bridges of Highway 20 and into Padilla Bay, we saw scores of Caspian terns which might have been nesting on the dredge spoil islands at the head of the channel. There has been much speculation as to the fate of the nesting colony that was evicted from the Bellingham waterfront and this is one of the possible locations that the terns might be utilizing. The dispersal of the Bellingham colony after 2010 has been so complete that we might never see its kind again in this area.

As we rounded the tip of Samish Island we passed through Samish Bay and into Bellingham Bay for the homestretch of a great day on the water. These cruises are dependent on people like you and me who wish to enjoy the scenic wonders and wildlife of the Salish Sea. They will continue into next year if we all support their efforts by spreading the word to friends and relatives who might be planning a trip to the area in the near future. Go to the website www.whales.com for more information on this and other cruises that will change the way you see this place we call home.