An Oregon Coast Sampler

Joe Meche is president of the North Cascades Audubon Society and also serves the chapter as newsletter editor and birding programs coordinator. He has been watching birds for more than 50 years and photographing birds and landscapes for more than 30 years. He has written more than 100 articles for Whatcom Watch.

Beyond a doubt, the Washington Coast is spectacular. From Cape Flattery on the northwestern tip of the Olympic Peninsula to Cape Disappointment at the mouth of the Columbia River is some of America’s most dramatic scenery. While parts of the coast require a bit of driving to reach them, some areas are wild and inaccessible except by boat or hiking boots. These wilderness stretches offer the most dramatic parts of the Washington Coast and are seldom viewed by most travelers.

The Oregon Coast, on the other hand, is a road tripper’s delight with U.S Highway 101 practically hugging the coastline from Astoria to Brookings, just north of the California state line. Dramatic surf, sea stacks, and pristine beaches are easily accessed along the entire route. The Oregon State Parks system has provided ample opportunities for camping and extended stays are best for in-depth exploration.

During the first week of August, we had occasion to spend time in the area around Coos Bay, in southwestern Oregon. I did my usual online work prior to leaving town and found the perfect hotspots to visit over the weekend. Not a single bit of research, however, can prepare you for the inevitable gridlock potential you face when navigating through….Seattle. Our express getaway came to a grinding halt with the downtown skyline barely in view. It was just another opportunity to appreciate where we live.

Regardless of the slowdown, our late afternoon departure took us as far as Kelso for the night and put us within striking distance of the coast for the next morning. We slept quite well after adjusting to the surprisingly pleasant white noise of the interstate in the distance. Shortly before noon the next day, we reached the coast north of Lincoln City and felt the need to slow down. We had left the serious driving behind and began our meander down a favorite highway – U.S. 101.

We pressed on through the commercial stretch of Lincoln City after deciding that Depoe Bay would be the perfect first stop to get into the rhythm of the coast. There are many things about Depoe Bay that are appealing, not the least of which is the fact that it’s perched right above a deep water bay whose rich kelp beds are often visited by migrating gray whales. Depoe Bay is considered to be the Whale Watching Capital of the Oregon Coast and a resident pod of whales makes its home offshore from March through December.

The shops on the inland side of the highway take second billing since most people stop here for possible close-up views of these magnificent marine mammals. The reader board at the Whale Watch Center keeps a record of sightings and has an observation deck for viewing the entire bay and the Pacific as far as the eye can see. Whale watching charters are also available for those wishing to get closer views. When you want to view winter storms on the Oregon Coast, Depoe Bay would provide a perfect vantage point.

Another claim to fame for Depoe Bay is that it bills itself as “The World’s Smallest Harbor.” The harbor and the distinctive bridge were featured in the Jack Nicholson movie, “One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest.” The bridge spans a narrow inlet cut into lava rock and only experienced skippers navigate this passage. A walkway goes underneath the bridge, primarily to keep pedestrians safe as they cross from one side of the highway to the other.

From the walkway, you can observe birds that come and go between the bay and the harbor, including belted kingfishers, western gulls that nest under the bridge, and shorebirds that rest and forage on the rocks below. One of the first things I noticed was the presence of numerous pigeon guillemots just offshore and even inside the harbor. This particular bird is a favorite in the Puget Sound area and provided the birding highlight of the trip for me.

From the observation deck outside the whale center, I noticed one guillemot fly underneath the bridge. Upon closer inspection, I discovered a nest with one chick inside. Guillemots typically nest in burrows in cliff faces but six-inch diameter holes in the bridge decking were apparently a suitable alternative. I walked to the opposite side of the small harbor to photograph a small flock of guillemots next to the U.S. Coast Guard station. As I was focused on one pair of birds, one of them took flight and flew right into a drain pipe for the parking lot above the harbor. I found another nest in a very unlikely location!

Needless to say, it was difficult for Cindy to pull me away from the guillemots and this great setting, but Coos Bay was calling. We continued down the coast, passing numerous pullouts with spectacular views, historic bridges and lighthouses, the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area, and state parks and campgrounds too numerous to count. We arrived in Coos Bay in late afternoon to check into our hotel and begin the weekend of Cindy’s 40th class reunion.

Reunion activities filled our first evening but Saturday was a free day for more exploration. I was on the road early and on my way to the Bandon Marsh National Wildlife Refuge, a mere twenty miles south of Coos Bay. This refuge was recommended to me by a member of the Cape Arago Audubon Society. He said that shorebirds were already stopping by on their southbound migration. What I found was a wildlife refuge with tremendous potential but very few birds on this day. But, dedicated bird watchers continue to hope for the best at all times.

Shortly after I returned to the hotel, we left for the day to visit Cape Arago State Park, one of three perfectly situated parks that connect via foot trails. If you park your car at any of the three, you can do all your exploring on foot. The big attraction at Cape Arago is the Simpson Reef, one of the largest haul-out areas on the coast for marine mammals. The viewpoint is situated in plain view of the reef and the sound you hear from the massed seals and sea lions is audible throughout the area. This impressive gathering on the reef was highlighted by the presence of one enormous elephant seal. He literally dwarfed the seals and even the California sea lions.

All things considered we had a great trip, but the one ingredient that was missing from our weekend getaway was the most valuable asset of all – time! Aside from the birds and marine mammals, tidal pools and sandstone cliffs eroded into almost mystical shapes beckon for further exploration. The Oregon Coast has much to offer and almost demands that you stay around for at least a week and perhaps focus on one particular area. That’s the plan for our next trip. §