Long Beach Peninsula

Joe Meche is president of the North Cascades Audubon Society and also serves the chapter as newsletter editor and birding programs coordinator. He has been watching birds for over 50 years and photographing birds and landscapes for more than 30 years.

Tucked away in the southwestern corner of Washington and just north of the mouth of the Columbia River is one of the state’s noteworthy landforms — the Long Beach Peninsula. In the context of history, the peninsula’s most significant claim to fame is its link to Lewis and Clark and the Corps of Discovery. Those intrepid explorers first sighted and reached the Pacific Ocean at Cape Disappointment in November of 1805. Another of the peninsula’s more tangible attractions is its 28 miles of continuous sand beach, the longest in the United States, and the world’s longest drivable beach.

It was a bit of a drive from Bellingham and one that we might have had second thoughts about taking, but this was to be a working weekend at the Fall Audubon Council of Washington. The logistics of getting from here to there involve two basic choices: you can opt for fast-paced freeway driving with thousands of other motorists and associated white-knuckle driving; or, if you leave early and have no specific agenda, you can take a ferry to the Olympic Peninsula and then meander along quieter, less traveled back roads.

We chose to stay on the back roads and, as expected, we encountered no traffic problems in the metropolitan areas of Lilliwaup, Hoodsport or Raymond. Toward the end of the drive, the road that wends its way along Willapa Bay between Raymond and Long Beach is a back road aficionado’s dream. And, given that it was mid-October, the brilliant fall colors and blue skies we encountered driving along the Hood Canal convinced us that we made the right choice.

As you turn north onto the Long Beach Peninsula and drive through the communities of Seaview and Long Beach, the road is as straight as an arrow and offers only hints of potential for things to do, aside from shopping and dining and sleeping. A bit of exploration, however, uncovers a wealth of something for everyone. If you’re there for beachcombing, 28 miles of beach should keep you busy for a while. If you’re there for shopping, you may shop … until you drop.

On the south end of the peninsula and west of the charming fishing community of Ilwaco, the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center awaits history buffs. Two of Washington’s historic lighthouses occupy promontories overlooking the Pacific at Cape Disappointment and North Head. The North Head lighthouse and grounds are open daily for tours. There is a large state park campground nearby that provides a good base for further exploration.

From a number of vantage points at either lighthouse, there are incredible views across the mouth of the Columbia River and into Oregon. Depending on the season, these are perfect spots to observe thousands of seabirds that congregate in the food-rich waters of the “Columbia plume.” This phenomenon occurs when the tremendous freshwater flow of the Columbia meets with the saltwater of the ocean to create a veritable buffet for birds. While we were there, one individual with a scope observed a yellow-billed loon — a bird that’s always high on everyone’s wish list.

All along the peninsula, seafood lovers will be in heaven knowing that fresh fish and crab are close at hand. Add to that the fact that Willapa Bay is considered to be the number one producer of farmed oysters in the country and among the top five producers in the world. Oyster farming in Willapa Bay is a 150-year old industry and cranberries have been grown in area bogs for more than 100 years.

For nature enthusiasts and birdwatchers, an expanse and diversity of habitats beckon in the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge. Willapa Bay, on the opposite side of the peninsula from the ocean beaches, is one of the most pristine estuaries in the United States and the second largest estuary on the Pacific coast. The vast eelgrass beds in the bay and the mixed wetlands on the south attract large numbers of Pacific black brant and other waterfowl in winter and during migration. The ocean and bay beaches host more than 100,000 shorebirds during migration.

One of the unique highlights of this wildlife refuge is the campground on Long Island, which can only be accessed by boat. Long Island is the largest estuarine island on the Pacific coast and covers more than 5,400 acres. There are 24 primitive campsites on the island with lots of potential for wildlife sightings and hiking in a 274-acre old growth forest with some western red cedars that have been around for over 900 years. Along with birds, the island plays host to a number of mammal species, including black bears and bobcats.

The peninsula’s salt marshes, tidal flats, old growth forests, beaches and sand dunes offer potential for a variety of bird species. Without even leaving our hotel room we were able to observe seemingly endless streams of brown pelicans moving along the shoreline. The hotel room was cozy but one of the main attractions is hiking and birding at Leadbetter Point State Park. This area sits on the northern tip of the peninsula and is a day-use area and a perfect starting point for hikes to the ocean and bay beaches.

We took advantage of a break in the conference action on Sunday morning to hike to the ocean beach from the parking area, and our reward was just the day itself. It was a bit on the chilly side but sunshine and blue sky gave us a psychological edge. Northern harriers floated above the grassy marsh while great blue herons waited patiently for morning snacks. A bit of a surprise on the way back to the hotel was a black bear which crossed the road right in front of the car. According to a local source, wildlife agents are in the process of relocating the peninsula’s bears, but there are still a few holdouts.

Of more than 100 species of birds that have been observed at Leadbetter Point, the one that attracts the most attention is the western snowy plover. This threatened species reaches the northern limit of its breeding range in Washington state and Leadbetter Point is one of the two remaining nesting areas in the state.

Their breeding and nesting behavior is very sensitive so the ocean beaches at the northern part of the point are closed from March to September to protect the nesting birds and their offspring. Diligent and fortunate birders might be able to observe these endangered shorebirds from outside the boundaries of the closed area, but please heed the signs when they are posted.

There’s plenty to do on the Long Beach Peninsula, no matter which direction you choose. If you’re overwhelmed by hunger, Long Beach Thai Cuisine boasts a chef “straight from Bangkok” and you can’t go wrong with the gai pad nam prik pau over steamed rice. If want to sample local oysters, then try the hoi nang rom phat prik, also over rice. If you overeat, there are T-shirt shops galore with just your size.

It just wouldn’t be fair for this synopsis to omit a Long Beach landmark from the list of things to see or do. Marsh’s Free Museum houses all sorts of oddities and is reminiscent of the side shows and freak shows of my youth, complete with eight-legged lambs and two-headed calves. But Jake the Alligator Man is the main event. I mean how could a half-man, half-alligator found in a Florida swamp be anything but the main event? Unfortunately, we ran out of time and missed Jake! Oh well, maybe next time?

With a great long weekend behind us, our plan was to leave early on Monday morning and take the long way home along the coast and around the north side of the Olympic Peninsula. The fine coastal rain that moved in Sunday evening turned into a steady, unrelenting Pacific Northwest drizzle by morning so we decided to revert to plan B. We returned home the way we came and were none the worse for wear when we arrived. It was a long but enjoyable journey. §