Sailing to Victoria: A Three-Hour Cruise

Joe Meche is president of the North Cascades Audubon Society and also serves the chapter as newsletter editor and birding programs coordinator. He has been watching birds for over 50 years and photographing birds and landscapes for more than 30 years.

If, like me and millions of other like-minded individuals, you are still searching for alternatives to decrease your consumption of fossils fuels and reduce your carbon footprint, there’s still hope. Last month’s column focused on a few of the campgrounds that are close enough to Bellingham so you don’t have to figure the cost of fuel into your travel budget. Well, there’s yet another way to take a weekend getaway without having to top off the tank.

Simply drive down to the ferry terminal in Fairhaven and hop onboard the Victoria Star for a three-hour cruise to the capital of British Columbia. Instead of leaving and returning in the same day, take it a step beyond and pack an overnight bag to extend your weekend and increase the relaxation quotient. While the idea of a three-hour cruise might cause some alarm for a few TV junkies, just check the passenger manifest to make sure there’s no one onboard named Gilligan!

Near the end of August, Cindy and I took our granddaughter, Logan, on an overnight visit to Victoria to celebrate her ninth birthday. As excited as Logan and Cindy might have been, I had the extra motivation of traversing the often bird- and marine mammal-rich environment of the San Juan Islands. While birding might be slow in our neighborhood this time of year, I knew there would be potential along the way for something different. I took along my chart of the area so I could better relate to where we were at any given time. I’m a lifelong cartophile, so it’s something I have to do.

The morning of our departure began with the typical cool and overcast weather that we expect in late August in this part of the world, but after three hours the sun prevailed. We motored south by southwest around Eliza and Lummi islands and found the first substantial flocks of birds on the Viti Rocks and nearby Vendovi Island. Due to the heavy whitewash of guano on the Viti Rocks, it was obvious that there is substantial avian activity there. Numerous gulls and double-crested and pelagic cormorants seemed to track our progress as we cruised past the rocks.

As we entered the Bellingham Channel, the numbers of birds increased. There were small rafts of rhinoceros auklets in every direction. Numerous pigeon guillemots were enjoying the morning and communing on the calm waters. Any trip through the San Juans usually includes sightings of bald eagles and this excursion proved no exception. Adults and immature birds were often in view as we passed the numerous islands and islets.

We sailed past Cypress and Guemes islands and entered the active waters of Rosario Strait. It was at this point that we began to see the first of many Heermann’s gulls. This is a mostly gray gull and the adults have a distinctive orange bill. Heermann’s are often seen on the open waters of the San Juans, especially during spring and fall migrations. Common loons shared the bounty of the strait with common murres and more rhinoceros auklets. Pigeon guillemots and marbled murrelets were also busy feeding in the thick kelp beds.

On a group of rocks called — appropriately enough — Bird Rocks, I spotted one bird that stood out noticeably from the gathering of cormorants. The distinctively different shape was obvious and easy to observe with the naked eye. Binoculars confirmed that it was a brown pelican. There weren’t many bird watchers on the boat but everyone wanted to see a pelican! I guess it was the familiar name that caught their ears.

As we rounded Point Colville on the southern tip of Lopez Island, we entered the easternmost reach of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. We eventually took a due west heading south of San Juan Island and the Victoria skyline appeared on the horizon as we traversed the waters of the lower Haro Strait. All eyes onboard were searching for signs of orcas, and though we failed to locate any of the resident pods, we did enjoy a few moments of harbor porpoise action along the way.

As we approached the greater Victoria area, the numbers of gulls increased accordingly. Ring-billed, glaucous-winged, western, and Heermann’s gulls were taking a midday break by the time we wound up the last leg of the cruise. There was very little avian activity all the way into the waterfront area, but the sunshine had the power to heal any shortcomings. Going into Victoria by boat is always a treat. The close confines of the busy inner harbor are dominated by the historic Empress Hotel and the magnificent parliament buildings of this beautiful capital city.

Since this cruise was our granddaughter’s birthday gift, she was given free rein to take us in whatever direction she wanted for the remainder of the day. So, we became serious tourists in our own time. My quest for a few good birds segued into her quest for a few fun things to see and do and, primarily, a few good chocolate shops to visit. Perfect weather demanded that we explore the area on foot and by utilizing the fleet of water taxis that ply the waters connecting points within the greater harbor area.

The gorgeous sunshine and perfect temperature of Saturday did a complete one-eighty and Sunday’s weather was all about steady rain, raincoats and umbrellas. My own plan had been to do some early-morning birding in nearby parks and along the waterfront before my traveling companions awakened. This best-laid plan was dashed by a steady deluge of good rain, so I retired to the downstairs restaurant of our hotel for coffee and the Sunday Victoria newspaper.

It could not have worked out better, however. Rainy days are great for museums and the Royal British Columbia Museum has some of the finest exhibits you’ll see anywhere. You can check your packs and your raingear and disappear into the human and natural history of British Columbia. Before long, you won’t even remember that it’s raining outside. It’s a fascinating stop and well worth your time, regardless of the weather. If you’re planning a visit of your own, check out their Web site at http://www.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca.

As much as we hated to leave the museum, we made our way to the dock in the late afternoon to wend our way through customs and board our good ship for the voyage home. On the return trip to Bellingham, we were treated to a surprisingly sumptuous dinner of fresh salmon and chicken. The rain continued nonstop for the duration of the trip home and made it difficult if not impossible to ride the bow and look for birds.

Consider this easy escape for a day or a weekend by visiting the Web site of the Victoria-San Juan Cruises at http://www.whales.com. Take binoculars for birds and whales, and take books and other paraphernalia to entertain yourself if the weather keeps you inside. All the amenities you need are onboard so just sit back and enjoy. Your car will be waiting when you return. §

If you’re interested in being a part of citizen science at its finest, contact Joe Meche by phone at 739-5383 or by e-mail at mechejmch@aol.com.